Start (April 12th)

Houston the tortoise has lift of

The start of LeJog at lands end britains most south westerly point, for 3pm the place was near deserted, (i think the wind speed had something to do with it).

Lands end to Penzance (April 12th)

11 miles, windy with clouds and sun, dry.

Getting there.
0709 train from Newbury east to Reading and catch the 07:57 to Penzance, arrive 13:30, a pleasant enough journey with some actually very nice views along the coast.

Grab a take away cup of tea and onto the 1340 bus for Lands end, what a laugh for a bunch of strangers on an open top double decker in strong winds, though they didn’t want to try seagull catching (just a suggestion).

In the beginning.

Quick photo of the start post and every long journey should start with a single step except mine which was more of a stumble as one of those adorable puppies on a long piece of string tried to wrap him/her self around my ankles.

I suspect for the benefit of tourists there is the rumour of a man eating squid around lands end, this conjured up visions of people turning up in frog man outfits with spear guns to trap a trophy specimen, i can say i continued on my way unharmed and can honestly say i saw no man eating squid, though i did see a man eating chips.

Drifting on course down to sennen cove was easy and at last sit down at a table for pastie and coffee, that’s a pack of rest after 1 mile. Getting out of sennen was a steeper matter and soon had the body up to normal hiking temperature, navigation went well across country to carn brae and carn euny where some fine ancient stone arrangement was to be found.

Lost Me!

Then i let the side down by getting lax about navigation and wandered on for a while and then realised i was uncertain of position which seemed to worsen and so did my self opinion, eventually i found myself on the A30 with sign saying penzance 3 miles, i then redeemed the situation from this position fix to navigate to the youth hostel from where i am typing this. I have put today down as 11 miles as per my designated route, the true distance covered will remain an embarrassing unknown. (hope that is lesson learnt).

It’s been a long eventful day and now time for bed.
Met some wild life along the way.

Rinsey head

Wheal prosper

Wheal Prosper Mine opened in about 1860 and seems to have been less than  prosperous. The  engine house has a mixed construction of granite and slate,  largely from small quarries on the clifftops nearby. Rinsey Mine as it is also known only worked until 1866 producing mainly tin with a little copper from the three main shafts. The protective covering over it’s shafts has been constructed to allow bats entry into the old workings as a roost.

Stithians reservoir (April 13th)

What a marvelous day

The reservoir is considered a top place for bird watchers, it’s location no doubt attracting many migrants for a rest.

Penzance-Stithians (April 13th)

First off all now in an internet cafe, no images in this post as they were lost at the tourist information wi fi intermittent connection, hopefully some have made it to the fliker account.

Miles probably over 20, cool easterly breeze, some cloud plenty of sun.

Full marks to staff at Penzance youth hostel, as they had the full breakfast ready for me at 0730 despite there being nobody else apparently up.
Head out at 0800 to a stiff chilly easterly but soon got warmed up, not long before excellent views of St Michael’s mount and along the coast path, came across a man hiking the coast path with his dog (apparently last week he met the Canadian beer tester!).

Totem pole between Penzance and Marazion.

 

 

I don’t wish to live in the past but sometimes it appears to have had more style, Penzance is somewhat famous for the opera pirates of penzance, when ever modern pirates (east african) appear in the news it looks like they forgot to visit the fancy dress shop. (guess they are not fashion conscious).

View of St Michael’s mount.

 

 

Really good having company for a bit as another chap had joined him, on reaching Praa sands we stopped for tea and it was warm enough to just shirt level, they went looking for a hat while i carried on and turned north east before Helston taking foot paths, bridleways and small roads, quite soon i passed a post office and bought 1/2 litre of water which turned out to be a good move as many villages along the way had no services, in fact the roads were amazingly quiet which suited me, north of Helston is old railway route which i was tempted to take north of Nancegollan.

Old mine at Nancegollan

 I turned right instead hoping for a shop in Porkellis, there wasn’t one so i headed up west edge of Stithians reservoir as i knew there was a pub there from earlier web search.
This was a bit pricey but a good pot of tea and they gave information about shop in Stithians, this maybe useful knowledge to others taking this route (Stithians has a early to late SPAR store, and a chip shop), so load with goodies for overnight and about an hour before dark i found a secluded field to pitch my tent and have a brew.

Plenty of interesting sights along the way.

Yes i wobbled a bit of course at times, but i can say this was a perfect day overall.

Stithians to Truro (April 14th)

Overcast with only occasional sight of sun, heavy dew.

In the night i heard scuffling noises (which may have been a badger or imagination) and while trying to open tent got the weather strip caught in the zip about 1/3 open, to say this is a problem would be an understatement and to matter of fumbling in the dark would resolve the problem. (many expletives later it is my fault and damned annoying).

Anyway up as the birds started their dawn chourus and make coffee to accompany cold meat sandwiches, then gradually pack kit away, i had no idea of time as i haven’t bothered wearing a watch, headed to Bissoe then connected with cycle route 3 to Truro, this was mostly very quiet very narrow lanes, walked into Truro and spotted a cafe for the full breakfast and asked the time 0945, ge i wonder what time i was up.

Ye Olde sign post.

Not good success with wi fi at tourist information but this connection seems fine, i’m going to head towards Idless wood and hopefully find a quiet grassy area where i can unwrap the tent and attempt to resolve the problem in daylight, i suppose in the end it’s not the end of the world and if it leaks i will have to B and B on wet nights.

As many have reported the past miles have been a constant up/down, left/right in all combinations continuously but it’s not to bad and the countryside reminds me of my farming youth (even got to say morning sheep) and remember the beauty of helping deliver lambs for those struggling, when it comes to the upslopes i find if i can just keep moving then my calf muscles give a little cheer as the top flattens out and gravities effect lessens.

Truro to Indian queens (April 14th)

Marvelous (not), on leaving Truro i used map compass and logic to find my way to the footpath under viaduct leading to Idless wood, it had closed sign, fenced of and men working on it, so it seems one way or another i end up of course each day. Anyway a few streets west i found a road going the right direction.
Idless wood was very pleasant and again i came across a patch of mud which contained little dog foot prints, am i tracking a little dog or is it the beast of bodmin leading me on.

Fungi in Idless wood.

The tent is serviceable, cutting a bit of weather flap away from zip and using rather to much force to get it open i will at least be able to close 2/3 of way.

Went a bit of track to photograph part of a huge wind farm, had to do an illegal hop over fence that saved me walking on the A30 at all, at Summercourt just as i walked into village i heard jingle jangle like an ice cream van but better than that it was a mobile fish and chip van (heaven).

For the last four miles of the day i had been looking for likely camp spot, but none appeared and i was getting cold and feeling run down thinking if nothing else i would have to pitch at gnome world which didn’t sound to attractive and probably expensive patch of grass.

As i passed the chinese takeaway in Indian queens there was a brown sign for B and B so i though i would enquire, 25 pounds for a night decision was easy. soon in my room a quick couple of teas while i unloaded my kid, removing socks showed my heels were pink and hot, the socks i decided were beyond re-use. It was around 8 as i laid back on the bed to enjoy sundown out of the window, next time i looked at the bedside clock it said 4 am, so that is another day.

Carony Bed and Breakfast

Moorland road Indian queens

Telephone (01726860741), Mobile (07796893428).

Email, info@caronybedandbreakfast.co.uk

I can only recommend to other travelers on this route.

Indian queens to St Breward (April 15th)

Frost, clear sky still the cool north easterly.

Lady had full breakfast ready for 7:30 so i was on the road at 8:00. Soon going past the screech owl sanctuary where i had hoped for a close encounter of the bird kind but they weren’t open that early. Lanes towards Castle-en-dinas, the last section was busy with traffic but short and soon as i turned onto a track i did have a close encounter of the bird kind in the form of a partridge, these usually run or fly on seeing a human but this one seem unperturbed.

Close encounter with a partridge (french, ie red legs).

Walked over Castle-en-dinas and soon back onto small lanes, it’s curious the signs one comes across on these lanes.

I went into Bodmin itself in search of internet, the computer shop doesn’t do internet service, the library (where it is available) was closed on Thursdays and the tourist information place was shut for dinner, but no matter i could hear the whistle of the steam train regularly as it plied it’s track, the Camel trail out of Bodmin goes past the old prison (last place of public hanging in Britain)and what a huge imposing ruin it is. The Camel trail was a delight, basicly level going, sheltered and sunny, followed by a sudden change to steep gradient up to St Breward. I did stop on one of the many benches along the trail for a boots and socks of to grease the feet and just enjoy the beauty.

The post office in St Breward is an internet cafe as well, really nice people but unfortunately i was kind of late for their closing time, apparently they stay open late on fridays.

Border 1 (April 16th)

Bodmin base camp (April 16th)

It was getting light.

St Breward to Launceston (April 16th)

Really cold north easterly, frost, blue sky.

What a magnificent day that really started the evening before as i left the very helpful net cafe/post office.
I went to the local pub and had a quick meal then headed out across the moor, king Arthers hall looked to damp to camp so i went on for another half mile towards brown willy and found an earth bank that provided some shelter to set up the tent, for a cool nights sleep. I did look out once in the night and it was perfectly clear (a great night for astronomers).

I assume this was King Arthurs hall, large oblong of earth and big rocks, it has a barbed wire fence around it and seemed in the right position for my map.

 

Awake at first light, boy there was a cold wind and frost over the tent, so i didn’t feel like trying to cook breakfast in that instead making a coffee in the tent (gentle flame), and then out and pack at high speed, its the first time i have had to wear my fleece, wooly hat pulled down over ears and gloves.

Half an hour later my fingers were still tingling from the cold of packing a frosty tent, i wandered across the moor and surprised a small heard of dear, next i saw a farmer out looking at his sheep and as i wandered across he was very helpful in pointing out i was about 100 mtrs off track , he wasnt a get of my land type more surprised to see me at that hour.

Sun on Rough Tor (no hint of the low temperature)

As the sun crept up one side of brown willy i was skirting the other, as the sun got across the landscape Rough tor looked more attractive so up there i went, once among the rocks in sun and out of wind i could set up my stove, put 6 eggs in a pan, cover with water, boil for short time, use spoon to put eggs back in carton to cool and use water to make coffee, plenty of bread and a tin of beans what more could a hiker want. Pack garbage and get going it was still darn cold in that wind. Amazingly up there was the first cuckoo i have heard calling.

 A breakfast to remember.

 

I used a basic reference to high point to reach new barn farm my way of the moor and turned right, many lanes as pretty as can be at one point a sparrow hawk went down the road ahead of me and later a stoat came running along, as i crossed the road at pipers pool (a quick right and left) there was a house advertising everything from a cup o tea to B and B, i had a pot of tea and lemon cake, they were really nice even bining my garbage (find i’m carrying food or garbage for miles).

More lanes to Launceston, i made my daily mistake this time ignoring a side road that looked like someones drive, realised later i was wrong, in Launceston i found a co op for overnight supplies and a fish and chip shop that was excellent, then i wandered out of town on the two castle trail ending up in a splendid piece of woodland just short of Dingles steam village.

Bed and Breakfast, cream teas and snacks

Hugh jean humber

Tresanber, pipers pool, Launceston Cornwall

Tel: 0156686455

email: hjhumber@hotmail.com

Launceston to Okehampton (April 17th)

Another brilliant day, a lovely night in the woods and that tent shure was covered in ice, but the area was more sheltered so just the fleece extra as i heated spaghetti and coffee with cold meat sandwiches.

Morning tent, the covering of frost doesn’t show up to well but i suspect Andy and Alfie will confirm it shakes of like thin glass.

Much of the two castle way is well signposted but i erred a little, anyway it was more lanes tracks (one very lumpy due to horses) and some testing slopes, arrival at Bridstowe was just right timing for the pub, a pot of tea and baguette fitted the occasion perfectly, across fields and finally onto the granite way into Okehampton to the youth hostel for a night but it dosnt’ have internet (grrrrr), so here i am in the Tourist information office were a very helpful lady has got this machine booted up for me but it doesn’t want to see my camera (grrrrrrrr).

Meldon viaduct along the Granite way.

Being in Devon, land of dairy cattle and products reminds me of my youth growing up on a farm in a village, one thing we were always cautioned about was ring worm (which is actually a fungus that starts as a point and spreads out forming a ring) which you can catch from woodwork that cattle have been rubbing against due to their itchy ring worm and so it spreads but we could treat it. Imagine my surprise one day when a milk mail quietly asked i could help her with a problem, of course said i, well it turned out using a mirror she found the itch on her buttock was ring worm and could i cure it , of course said i and over a couple of weeks regular treatment with a small brush and right ointment had the ailment banished. Now i never really knew why she chose me to be in trust of her secret (which is eternally safe) but was certainly flattered, i wonder what happened to her (people seem to move away so much these days) and it would be very nice to see her again, this time she wouldn’t have to bend over my workbench..

The feet are fine but will get greased tonight, the knees and shoulders give occasional twinges to say i’m doing enough, i’m trying to walk smooth and slow and yes a day off would probably be a good idea but this weather is just to good to stop.

Okehampton to Thorverton (April 18th)

Another fabulous day, still north easterly breeze, plenty of sunshine.

Left Okehampton youth hostel early, in town i met a window cleaner who told me nothing would be open this early on a sunday but if i followed the b road towards sticklepath i would pass a BP garage with cafe attached, and so it was, usual service station amount for price but at least it was open so grateful.
Tarka trail was pretty and local churches were ringing out the congregation call, many small lanes that were so quiet and just lovely i could bore people saying how nice it was.

Follow the otter.

Passing one house a man called out “going far” next thing you know i’m sat on their patio drinking tea and eating cake, isn’t it just marvelous when the world gets pleasant, later had lunch at the Mare and Foal pub which was a good plateful. Many many plants leaping into full growth, even saw some wild strawberries in flower.

Continue with the lanes to Crediton where i stocked up on food and water and continued walking more lanes through Spreyton and onto Throrverton, late found a fir (larch) plantation to pitch tent, it kept the frost off but was the lumpiest ground yet.

Daryl’s shed, the bus shelter at Spreyton made a little famous by Daryl May, i took a pack of rest here quietly thanking him for the inspiration and little less for the perspiration, he’ll be pleased to know there is an up to date dung sale advertised.

One village i passed through had an amazing number of ducks on it’s pond, on talking to locals apparently these ducks have been arriving for the last year, it seems they are refugee ducks from the south east due to the dissapearance of duck houses in that area, (not the first time politics has caused mass migration).

Canal start it’s getting hot (April 19th)

The Grand Western canal meanders through beautiful Devon countryside and quiet villages between Tiverton and Lowdwells, it seems a pity now that half of it fell into disuse.

Thorverton to Thorne St Margeret (April 19th)

It was a nice dawn in the larch plantation which is now showing it’s spring flush of bright green needles, the dawn chorus seems to start with members of the crow family noisily making their way out into the countryside, it’s almost as if the rest of the smaller birds then think good they’ve gone and start their own twittering, i half think i could hear gold crests, certainly members of the tit family, thrush, blackbird, always a wren it seems and then as well as through the day often a dunnock which for a plain brown bird has a song i don’t tire of. (note i’m a long way from bird expert).

Fire up the gaz stove for coffee, baked beans and corned beef sandwiches, then pack and back to those up and down roads to Bickleigh bridge and it’s miniature trains, i have read much in the past about how bad the Exe valley way can be, well at the moment it’s in good condition with only two muddy patches and so was enjoyable to traverse and so enter Tiverton where is spent quite a bit of time eating a full breakfast, looking at the views, the library provided an internet connection that was slow but cheaper than some (2 pounds for half an hour), walking makes us hungry so i had sausage and mash before moving up to the start of the grand western canal, where as mentioned in the instant phone post it was feeling the hottest yet on this trip.

 

The canal was just a treat, plenty of resting benches spaced along the canal path, several clutches of ducklings, and swans nesting,

eventually the canal suddenly ends and turns into a bit of a bramble and thorn fest, i had read much about how bad this can be to follow and so decided to do some of the section on roads criss crossing the canal, i’m not sure this was a smart idea as many of the little roads can test one’s sense of humour as they often lack any signage. On one sigh i noticed the upright section had Somerset on it so some where amongst all that i crossed another border but am not sure where exactly the border was. Anyway ended up in what can best be described as a hedge near Thorne St Margaret.

Border 2 (guess i won’t notice them all).

 

Thorne St Margeret to Taunton (April 20th)

Fairly short walk today, the hedge i spent the night in provided cover from the frost which admittedly seemed less powerful than previous nights, tho the grassy fields were tinged white, not far down the road in early morning mist i happened upon a farmer getting his cows in for milking, Nynehead may have lost the canal but the weir on the river tone is quite impressive. Taunton seemed quite a sleepy town in no rush to get started ended up having breakfast in Mc Donalds as it was the first open, previous to the this on the outskirts of town i was very glad of the warmth provided by a take away coffee from a BP garage.

Couldn’t help but notice this restaurant in Taunton.

I’m now taking a day or two’s rest to let the legs recover and try to get the blog and photo’s up together, next the Somerset flats and the promise of easy terrain (except for going over the Mendips).

Rest and revision (April 21st)

With 180 miles behind me it’s perhaps no surprise the legs ached, the sensation is now abating. Now have photo’s uploaded to flickr feed and posts from Penzance updated.

The feet are fine, when they get hot and pink i assume it’s due to increased blood flow as they are not used to this much activity on a continuous basis, the effect was initially around my heels, when they settled down it moved to soles of feet, When i grease them (vaseline), i clean and dry them, rub on a dolop of grease and immediately put on clean socks so no grit can get in, this seems to work fine for me. I did meet one chap on the coast who was complaining of bad feet, when he took his boots of there were multiple pairs of sweaty socks which i though must be like leaving your feet in a sauna, against all recommendations i just wear one pair of cotton socks.

So far i haven’t suffered from sore cheeks ie monkey bum.(hooray)

So far i’m still wearing my Hi Tech pathfinder boots because my feet seem happy with them, water soon gets through them on boggy ground. The tent seems ok after my mishap with the zip but i have to be carefull not to repeat the mistake. My 45L pack is available from Tesco at £20, when i initially bought if for training i really didn’t expect it to last to long yet it still seems absolutely fine. My mummy sleeping bag (£19 from Tesco) packs into a small stuff sack with pull down straps to a small size so is quite thin, it’s not really up to the frosty nights but keeping some clothes on makes the nights cool rather than cold.

The weather has been pretty near perfect, and sure have crossed some wonderful countryside, i met some walkers on the coast path but have met no lejoger’s, i have met some very pleasant and kind members of the public. Being amongst so much farming has reminded me constantly of the village where i grew up (some say i never did) and the things we got up to. We had what we called the science circle, this amounted to who ever was sat around a pub table, it was true democracy open to all so featured young and old, male/female and many participants sported overalls and a woolly hat, Working on farms one of our early decisions was after a member cut their finger on a health and safety leaflet we would ignore them and rely on common sense.

The bank and hedgerow lined lanes have been abundant with wild life, lots of flowers and in the shady area’s lovers of ferns, mosses and lichens would be in heaven. My photo record is a very small summary of what is to be seen, twice i have come across foxes which took a while to notice me, unfortunately the only badger i have seen was road kill. Now i must get on with a bit of kit repair (couple of frayed ends) and get up together with laundry ready for some more plodding.

I’ve dated the posts relevant to their days walk as sometimes using post by phone (instant) and update by internet cafe by email (when available) is getting some info out of sync.

Burrow mump

At Burrowbridge i crossed the bridge over the river parret and there was a pub for ploughmans and pot of tea. The village is also home to burrow mump.

The ruins of an ancient church standing on the natural hill (Burrow mump) of sandstone capped with Keuper marl, close to junction of rivers Tone and Parrett.

Taunton to Westhay (April 22nd)

Great start to the day on the Bridgewater and Taunton canal so easy walking, somehow i missed the turning for the river tone and had to do three sides of a square to get on it, this was really pleasant walking along the river and i believe i saw an egret. At one point despite a footpath being shown on my map the gate said no access, so i went round that bit through remain uncertain of the signs validity.

A very nice ploughman’s lunch at the pub immediately over Burrow bridge and then climbed Burrow mump for some photo’s and lay in the sun awhile, next it’s the A361 for a while and suffer the sort of traffic we try to avoid, you know when the traffic  lights have changed on burrow bridge as a chain of vehicles come rushing by, along the A361 i crossed the King’s Sedgemoor drain a point at which many lejoger’s turn right and head towards Glastonbury.

I carried on a bit further getting of the A road at Grainton heading north up a steep slope, as i came over the top there was a foot path leading to Shapwick and for the first time i could clearly see the Mendips across the northern horizon.

Picked up supplies in Shapwick and carried on to near Westhay where i camped in some woodland next to sweet track which is believed to be the oldest accurately dated wooden walkway in the world. The dating done by dendrochronology (tree ring ) puts the wooden walkway remains at around 6000 years old. As it got dark a tawny owl was busy hooting from the tree under which i had set up tent.

1 mile north of shapwick near the sweet track.
Bright and breezy, great day

Westhay to atop mendips (April 23rd)

A great night under an oak tree so plenty of leaves to act as softening, i had gotten used to tent pegs being difficult to insert into stony ground previously, here its old marsh land so the soil is peat and the tent pegs fell into the soil so not a firm grip but never the less held, gardeners would love the soil.

In woods meant no frost on the tent for a change and there was little along the grassy road sides, awoke to the owl still hooting a bit further away and soon a cuckoo set up calling. Many wildlife reserves now have old style grazing animals to keep the scrub down, this chap was just asking to be photographed.

As the sun gets up on such mornings it’s ground heating causes the cold from the soil/grass to rise condensing the moist air above and the scene turned really misty for a while which cleared again as the sun raised the air temperature further.

On route to Cheddar i passed through the village of Wedmore, the lady in a coffee shop despite not being officially open (still early) made me a large coffee which was most welcome as i had run out of water, Wedmore is a village well worth walking through (in my opinion), it’s one of those places where it seems all residents care for and enjoy living there.

Approaching Cheddar i passed through an industrial site and spotted a sign (Roosters) breakfast van, and jolly good it turned out to be, quite the best sausages i’ve had so far on lejog (what is in most modern sausages!).

Cheddar contains all the attractions you may or may not enjoy but the internet cafe has apparently gone, took on an extra litre of water here for the expected climb effort and soon the attractions are behind and the real beauty is there to enjoy, and enjoy i did walking through the gorge to Black rock and takeing the path up through longwood and 

paths to the high point of Mendips on black down.

Atop mendips to Barrow gurney (April 23rd)

 

Descending from the Mendips involved several paths to Blagdon, where a pub provided cheese sandwiches and a pot of tea, talking to the landlady it seems the two other pubs in the village had gone out of business (isn’t that a familiar tale) but she was doing fine by exploiting a niche market. This involved advertising accommodation, boats and all kinds of stuff related to fly fishing for trout which apparently the lake is well stocked with, they even have tables to gut the fish and freezers to keep fish till end of week for the guests, beer sales don’t really feature in their profit margin being more an accessory.

Along the lake i saw grebe’s, speckled wood and orange tip butterflies are becoming more common, the beech trees are breaking into leaf all adding up to more of springs progress and all in all this really is a picturesque route. Ever north ward through Butcombe and Felton it is so amazingly quiet until nearing Felton you become aware of the proximity to Lulsgate airport and regular big birds appear overhead, that is why instead of stopping on Felton common i carried onto Barrow gurney which was far enough away to avoid the air craft noise. It sure was a long and pleasant day.

Blagdon lake

 

Blagdon Lake (originaly the Yeo reservoir) lies in the Chew valley at the northern edge of the Mendips, was constructed between 1891 and 1899, by building a dam across the  River Yeo, a light railway was constructed primarily to bring building materials for the lake. The lake provides drinking water, doubling as a nature reserve and fishing lake. What i didn’t realise while there was that it has a visitor centre which includes two of the original (four) steam engines used to pump water (one in working condition).

Barrow gurney to Bristol (April 24th)

Had camped on grass next to hedge on some downland, not quite so warm as the previous woodland but there was little frost on the grass. Minor roads and paths to Long ashton and what looked like quite the climb on my map to Leigh woods certainly felt like a long climb, odd things turn up on our journeys and someone obviously had a passion for making plastic milk containers into an art form.

I crossed the area towards the Clifton suspension bridge which was as impressive as i had imagined (woo it’s a long way down), and into Bristol.

 i moved down to the dock area of Bristol and of all the surprises while concentrating on trying to get a good photo of the SS Great britain (which turned out badly) a fox came jogging by. There seemed to be a show based around Italian vehicles in the town, lot’s of cars (old) had got there early and were parked on display in the pedestrian area’s along with a group of scooters.

While sat enjoying an after breakfast smoke literally hundreds of Italian motor cycles came into town (City), most were Ducati but i did notice other marques including an MV agusta (a rare beast indeed).

Bristol to Severn bridge (April 24th)

Now i set about crossing Bristol to get on the river severn, some parkland and suburban roads and not as bad as might be imagined from a map. While standing on a pavement checking the map a little old lady came up to me and asked “do you know where you are” i said i think so pointing to a spot on the map and she agreed and asked where i was headed, it transpires her son cycled lejog and it was a great spur of the moment conversation, then she wanted to give me 10 pounds for charities which i assured her was to much and if she put a pound in any of the charity boxes that would be nice to know about (it’s just wonderful these moments when such trusting people make contact).

Now fruit is supposed to be good for us and suddenly i was struck with a desire for some on seeing a shop front laden with various fruits, i choose a bunch of grapes but had no one to share them with, well plodding along in the sunshine it was easy to eat one grape followed by another grape and hence they were all consumed, this of course did have an effect on my digestive tract (oh the price of good health).

There are just more and more signs of spring as i go along, bluebells are becoming common as are arum plants, what did take my eye as i’ve notice it so much even around home this winter is the amount of mistletoe on trees, this one seen when crossing Bristol suburbs seems to sum up the abundance nicely.

It’s quite common in towns to see houses with plaques on them stating some one famous lived here, and today there was one stating Lionel blair lived here, many know him for his singing/dancing career but far fewer seem aware of his early success as an olympic ice skater.

The route missed out much of the Avonmouth industry which some say is not at all appealing and so led to severn beach which i’m afraid seems to be a place dying due to lack of interest, i gess it just holds nothing for the modern day tripper, i stocked up with supplies at the one store open, perhaps it will help if lot’s of hikers take the severn way. I set of along the severn way passing under the newer severn bridge and upon reaching the earlier one found the path creeps up the back of the service area and actually crosses the motorway atop the traffic toll booths, i then went a little further north away from the traffic noise.

Severn bridge to Arlingham (April 25th)

During the early hours kept waking to the sound of rain on the tent, i had pitched behind the sea defence wall (earth bank) and this really was a good spot, the sheep had grazed the grass short and it was sheltered, a little warmer and so was very comfortable indeed. Crawled out to the dawn chorus under a  cloudy sky.

The severn way is certainly pleasant and quiet but it does lack signage in some area’s and wanders about a bit, as at Oldbury-on-severn, i was a bit pleased to actually find the correct little paths here (it was to early to ask any locals), but do concede perhaps this meandering is done to pass as many pubs as possible.

Next we come to a big building boldly claiming it’s nuclear status.

It has a bird reserve attached, a curious thing was going on with the severn that i couldn’t quite understand in that there seemed to be a step in the water which sounded like a waterfall and would obviously be eclipsed at higher tide so i must have happened along at just the right time. Maybe a small version of the severn bore.

Soon after this i was plodding along country lanes when a white van pulled up and out popped the driver to ask directions, i explained i was from miles away but amazingly by searching my map i was actually able to give him directions.

I went inland to pass Berkeley castle and Berkeley is another nice town, then small road to Sharpness and it’s docks where i could join the Gloucester canal, the pub in Sharpness was fully booked for food and i was worrying about finding food but thought Purton may be good (there is a pub marked on the map), the land lady in Purton seemed to take delight in telling me i was out of luck they don’t do food and don’t do pots of tea (what is a hiker to do), thought to be fair she did advise me there would be a pub open all day at Slimbridge which turned out to be true, also at Slimbridge was a cafe (the black shed) which i settled for (sausage and mash), here i will mention my size 11 feet which i suppose leads to rather large boots, well there was one of these young ladies there that dressed in the goth style and the pair of boots she had on made mine look quite small, i wonder if they would do much mileage.

The severn way follows the Gloucester canal until where the severn does a big loop to the west and i followed it as best i could around that loop, here again more signs would certainly be nice.

Arlingham to Gloucester (April 26th)

A simple enough hike, i followed the river around till about Longney and then cut across towards Quedgeley till i came to the Gloucester Sharpness canal which i followed as a traffic free route to more or less Gloucester town centre, then found the big breakfast.

That was the easy bit, the missing bit is last evenings cock up which will no doubt get me twit of the year award. To cut a long story short my tent was trampled by cattle and no i wasn’t in it at the time. So i’ve now scooted home on the train and will tip out my pack tomorrow making sure kit is fine and rethink schedule as i wasn’t expecting  a rest day yet. (hopefully back to Gloucester wed morning).

Now to move swiftly on to the positives, it wasn’t raining, having noticed a couple of days ago my boots are starting to wear through (they have done well over 500 miles so no complaints) i will likely start out in a new pair of Hi tech kynysna boots that i have here. Probably bring my monodome tent which i’m not certain about in windy conditions and see how it goes. If all else fails it will be B +Bs. I must say what a lucky start we have all had this year with the weather, i see i’m not alone in reaching the 25% of route mark and it sounds like others have enjoyed the scenery as much as i have.

Heart burn

Picture if you will a typical west country village, there is the standard “ye olde tea shoppe” outside are round tables and chairs, opposite is the village church and grave yard on higher ground, surrounding the graveyard facing the tea shop is a wall about a metre high with the grass covered soil slopping back at a steep angle from the top of the wall. That wall is perfect for your hiker to sit on leaning back against the grassy soil his pack resting beside him.  So i’m sitting on the wall with pack beside and on the other side a tea tray and pastie to chew, around one of the round tables outside the tea shop opposite sit two aging ladies with each an equally aging labrador, we’ll (in left to right as i view) call them lady A and lady B, with equally labradours A and B laying outside their respective owners. These dogs don’t need tying up, they enjoy their little stroll and when it comes to tea time, just dropping their leads under the table is enough for them to lay at their masters side.

So the scene is set (bliss), i am chewing a pastie, the ladies have their cups of tea and have lit a cigarette each, after a couple of puffs lady B rests her cigarette on the tables edge and picks up her tea cup, i can only sumise at this point that the table isn’t perfectly stable and tilts a little due to the change in weight distribution, any way unbeknown to her the cigarette rolls of the table landing just behind labrador Bs right front leg, nothing happens for a few seconds as the labrador continues his dreamy slumber and then it must have arrived, the very real sensation of heart burn or maybe he felt under attack from a killer bee, either way there was an enormous yelp as he leapt into the air and exited to the left, his lead caught the table leg and over went the tea set.

Now this i where i once again guess that evolution has inbuilt a survival tactic in that when under attack, scatter for best chance of survival, as labrador A with a split second time lag having heard the warning yelp himself leaps and exits to the right knocking over lady As hand bag from which ushers all the vat reciets she has been keeping for the last couple of months, so the road between us looks like giant confetti has floated down.

There are many cries of you stupid dog what was that about, but soon the maternal instinct takes over and it’s come to mummy, didums have a fright, never mind, while the dogs stand at either end of the street heads hung low like two gunfighters in a western suddenly realising they forgot their weapons, labrador B occaisonally giving his right side a lick, slowly they return to the table and are patted back into position. The waitress has come out of the shop to see what the commotion is about and now retreats to remake the pot of tea and fetch a replacement cup for the one that broke.

Meanwhile, i had trouble not spluttering on the pastie but shortly it is finished and i go into the shop for a topup tea, the waitress is wondering what happened, so i explained quietly what i saw and suggested perhaps it’s best left as a mystery for the ladies to ponder, the waitress is rather pleased/amused by all this and i get a free slice of cake for the information. Where would england be without tea?

Oddas chapel

 

Odda’s Chapel at Deerhurst Gloucestershire,  a  Saxon chapel now built into a medieval timber-framed farmhouse which obscures the eastern chancel (but is itself well worth viewing). The building is a simple two-cell structure with characteristic Saxon long and short quoins. Though very plain inside, it retains the original chancel arch and a number of Saxon windows. Its importance was only recognised in 1885, despite the fact that an important stone inscription was found nearby some two hundred years previous.

“Earl Odda had this Royal Hall built and dedicated in honour of the Holy Trinity for the soul of his brother, Aelfric, which left the body in this place. Bishop Ealdred dedicated it the second of the Ides of April in the fourteenth year of the reign of Edward, King of the English.” [12th April 1056] (A copy of this stone is housed in the chapel, the original being in an Oxford museum).

Odda seems to be a  well known figure of the period as Earl of Hwicce and a captain of the Royal Fleet, not to mention, a kinsman of King (Edward the confessor). The stone implies that he and his brother, Aelfric, built (or rebuilt) a large palace complex here Including  the chapel.  Both men are known to have died at Deerhurst and to have been buried in nearbye Pershore Abbey.

Interesting tree near the path.

Gloucester to Tewksbury (April 28th)

Leave Gloucester late morning past the cathedral which could probably do with half a days viewing on it’s own, finding the severn way wasn’t to difficult and so northward we go, in a couple of places fallen branches made it a bit interesting getting under or over them with pack on.

It was a bit noisy and dust at one point passing nortons stone masonry business. The route just keeps getting more beautiful, some of the meadows now being a carpet of dandelions, and then at one place i spotted a slime mould about 2 metres up a willow tree (can’t remember it’s full name of the top of my head).

Next obstacle was an electric fence but remember these well  from my farming days, so just lift one post out of ground and lay it down, step over and then lift post placing pointed end back in the hole i had lifted it from. I had just finished this maneuver when along came four hikers, it turn out they were doing the severn way on Wednesdays, how’s about that for a relaxed approach. (They of course mentioned the upcoming election which i’m quite happy to miss, though it did remind me of the village where i grew up, we had an MP who campaigned the locality on his donkey, some people seemed to get the species wrong, claiming he was campaigning from his Ass).

 Then up through some woodland and then a treeless hillside that was sporting ladies smock aplenty and large patches of cowslips.

I stopped at the red lion pub for a cream tea, if it had included a pot of tea instead of the one cup then it may have been ok as value, but as it was i had problem seeing value and the staff didn’t seem much interested in a customer either, this aside it really is a nice spot. On the pub walls are markers from flood levels in bad years.

Further along the way i notice that many static caravans are now set up on stilts.

After visiting Oddas chapel i called Steve clifford to say i was about an hour away from Tewksbury so we met in the centre of town and a rather good evening was had in a pub (lot’s of tea).

Tewkesbury to Grimley (April 29th)

Great night at the caravan and camping club sight which is just of the centre of Tewkesbury and really it couldn’t be more convenient.

Found a cafe for a good breakfast and had a look a round the town to photograph a few of the many timber framed buildings and Abbey, this really is a nice town.

 

Then it was meet up with Steve, and away we go over the bridges out of town and along the severn way, one mistake probably due to my chattering was a slight vear of course that found us in the middle of a clay pigeon shoot, whoops, must pay more attention, anyway the detour was interesting enough.

Upton upon severn provided a nice beer garden for a pot of tea each at around 1/3 of the days distance, another village at a similar distance provided takeaway coffees from the little shop as it was the only place open, it had started light rain some time earlier and we had stopped to put on pack covers after passing severn bank house, now in the village our coffee was taken in the bus shelter a very welcome hideaway in such weather.

It was somewhere along this section that much to surprise there was a clump of the dryads saddle fungus (rather early)

The last couple of miles in Worcester saw a minor detour due to construction, on getting beside the cathedral we parted company (it was so nice to have such an interesting traveling companion). I was to set of and find the information centre with the hope of internet access followed by finding the race course campsite on my map, steve was of to find his B+B.

It was another of those occasions when things went bad then good, the information place is no more, the race course campsite seemed to be a tempory sometimes (that was the info i was given) but nothing at the moment, so unsure of what was on route i filled up with food in Worcester then set of on course up the severn way, little did i know that around four miles along  the way i would come upon the camp house pub, where it was easy to put the tent up (being the only one there, guess that will change for the bank holiday), tea was ordered and within minutes there was plenty of friendly banter with the great locals and bar staff, this is another place i must give five stars and recommend to any lejoger’s on this route, the crowning glory was their special cheesy chips mmmmmmm. 

It’s a real menagerie of water fowl and poultry, hens, ducks, geese, guinea fowl, peacocks and a petulant swan to name the few i noticed.

This place of course evoked memories of farming and the village where i grew up, one lad had a voice so high dogs could hear him, this sounds a terrible handicap but in fact it proved very useful in that he became famous for training sheep dogs.

Grimley to Kidderminster (April 30th)

Awake with the dawn chorus including all the farmyard fowl here, mild, northerly content to breeze, heavy dew, sun breaking through at times.

Of on the trail by 6 am, and yesterdays wet boots soon got wet again due to the amount of wet grass, very nice riverbank countryside walking again. The river seven gradually has locks appearing at closer intervals so becomes like a large canal, at Stourport-on-severn the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal begins as a separate entity.

In Stourport-on-severn i found a cafe (olive tree) just up the main street from major road bridge, it was excellent food, value and company so five stars are awarded.
Followed the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal (very nice) into Kidderminster where it passes a large tesco, just right to purchase some extra pairs of dry socks. Across from the tesco car park is signed college and contains the town library where i am typing this, and what a fast connection, 2 hours free and could upload camera so i must give this library five stars compared with those i found in the west country.

Kidderminster to Wolverley (April 30th)

a rather short day, no camp site for 13 miles and weather is iffy.

A clock in Kidderminster (very ornate).

One disappointment in Kidderminster was the railway station had shut before i arrived there (same for three other people) and i had been looking forward to riding on a steamer, apparently they start full time table tomorrow. What i had noticed over the last 2 weeks is a large reduction in the number of train spotters which upon talking to some here had a simple answer, in that 2 weeks ago their numbers were swelled due to the volcanic ash closing airports and the plane spotters being denied flights to observe had switched allegiance.

who would believe coincidence, a chap has just pitched next me who was one of the tube walkers that appeared on mark moxons site last year. apparently there are a dozen of them including various bits of coast line on the way up. They are spread out haphazardly so more may arrive here tonight. Think im getting the hang of this phone in daylight.
Boots are now dry as is tent which was packed very wet this morning.

Wolverly to Wolverhampton (May 1st)

cloudy sunshine.

The campsite at Wolverly was very good, the price £8:40 seemed good to me as it had all amenities and the staff were very friendly and helpful.
I heard one downpour in the night and woke to find the feet end of sleeping bag was wet, on the trail by 6 am and soon passing many tunnels that are part of the canal carved through the sandstone. I arrived Kinver around 8 am and found it surprisingly sleepy, luckily a bakers was open so i had a corned beef and salad roll with water.

At Stourton there is a  branch canal which goes to Stourbridge.

Reaching Swindon around 11 am i found a post office for pasty and more water (More for less, I could have had a croissant, these seem to me to be a pasty minus it’s filling so are more money for less food), 

 Also saw first Canada geese with goslings.

At Wombourne i finally found a pot of tea at a sainsburys beside the canal

really nice day cruising canal side

Wolverhampton to Milford (May 2nd)

Some heavy showers decreasing to cloudy sky, little sun, cold north easterly wind (time to wear the fleece).

It was a pretty bad night, the tent is good for only light shower, i now see where the leak is (bad design seam), when the thunder started i knew i had a problem, spent much of the night in water proofs under a canal bridge where it was dry.
More of the Staffordshire-Worcestershire canal, which i have come to admire, much of it (especially the southern half) is carved in sandstone and gives the uphill walls a great look (i had to stop taking Photo’s), meal on a canal side patio what could be nicer. One thing that has featured on this canal is the number of Herons which continued in number today.

There is some industry to pass in the Wolverhampton area but by and large this canal is a rural idyll, and some times graffiti is quite good to look at.

 

Quite the  day passing under motorways as well (M54 and M6) a nice reminder of what we aren’t missing. Penkridge is a very nice town which is worth visiting as a short stroll from the canal, the white heart is probably the most photographed building and i could see why.

Some shops had closed for the bank holiday but i did get some food here, i have been surprised/wrong in assuming so many of these towns would be buzzing to catch the bank holiday tourist but were in fact very quiet. Gess i’m kind of spoilt as in the village where i grew up we could always get food at the local 24 hour chinese takeaway known as “Wok around the Clock”.

Soon after leaving Penkridge the route goes under the M6 and shortly turns of the canal onto the Staffordshire way which is well signed and easy to follow though it is wet in places.

Found some more fungi in the woods and walked through an oilseed rape field in flower and smelling sweetly (see flickr feed).

The Staffordshire way then leads across fields and lanes into cannock chase (an area of outstanding natural beauty), near the high trig point is the erratic stone left here miles from home by the ice age.

I then wander around the chase towards Milford at the northern end of cannock chase, i went through the little villages along the chase, plenty of no camping signs and couldn’t find any B+Bs, but luckily some buses were operating so i caught one into Stafford. I’m going to take a few days off, a new tent to replace the trampled one is ordered and hopefully wont’ be long arriving.

Milford to Stone (May 6th)

cloudy, light shower
Added 3 miles to my route by following the river sow out of Stafford a town making itself pretty with a very nice park that has the river through it’s middle, then well sign posted walks along the river out of town where it closes on the canal,  at  Milford i was  back on course on Staffordshire and Worcester canal.
There are two aqueducts over rivers (sow and trent) before the junction with the Trent/Mersey canal where i turned north west. (having passed first goslings i had seen this year)

The path is good and through  quiet countryside, i  passed a sign describing  an old salt works that a century ago made this small area a busy spot the canal being important in its transport and saw a reed bunting. Plenty of friendly people along the canal as i approach Stone, this area seems to be really rejuvenated by the interest in canals, there being a lot of marinas and associated support for the huge number of barges here.

Also perhaps worthy of mention is the variety of decoration seen on barges, this one obviously having a passion for non british mammals.

This ties in nicely with the unusual story of a local zoo where one of the gorillas had assumedly got tired of life behind bars, he had rather cleverly dismantled his climbing frame in the night and used one of the longer poles from it’s structure to Pole vault over the moat and fence surrounding the enclosure to make good his escape for no doubt a brief taste of freedom, you just never know what may turn up on a hike.

Stone to Kidsgrove (May 7th)

Cloudy,  rain at sun up clearing still not warm
 Spent last night in reed a bed which was comfy but not such a  good hold for the  tent pegs in the peaty soil that gardeners adore. Passed the Wedgwood factory

and  lots of old potteries, it’s interesting to see such history and a pity that some of these area’s do have that run down feeling.

 

 

I did notice  3 types of fungi along my path  including St Georges mushroom.

I came to the Hare castle tunnel (see link for comprehensive details), another marvel of engineering, and must admit i fancied hitching a ride on a barge to experience it but this would have meant not walking part of the route so walked over the top, the man in control of barge movements through the canal was very helpful providing a sketch map of a route over the top.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harecastle_Tunnel

Next i reach the junction where the Macclesfield canal begins, for a time the two canals run pretty much parallel, the macclesfield climbing as the tent/mersey descends, then the macclesfield canal passes over the trent / mersey, (kind of a watery interchange).

Notice in the background the railways in this area use over head electrical power supply.

Kidsgrove to Macclesfield (May 7th)

It had to happen, canal path closed, some workmen may be helpful but not today, these chaps were very intent on guarding their workspace, assuring me i couldn’t use fields alongside to get passed as their space included going under a railway i couldn’t cross.

Fret over map for a while and set of on a track north east, when i soon happen upon a couple gardening, they couldnt of been more helpful, local knowledge soon work out 4 minor roads and short bit of A road to get back on canal. This also lead to a conversation about a big hill in the area that seems to be refered to by the locals (and bargees) as the cloud because it sticks up above surrounding countryside it tends to always have a cloud above it.

I seem some how to have measured macclesfield canal wrong, 8 mile underestimate, another whoops, (suspect i measured Macclesfield canal from start to Macclesfield and put this down as it’s full length) 

Another great day

Macclesfield to Marple (May 8th)

Cloudy, rain at dawn clearing, cold NE wind.
Basic campsite (amenities), packed fairly dry and got on the trail early.
Directions from a chap on the outskirts of Macclesfield led to good breakfast in a cafe that was open at 7:30.
Irony struck with another towpath closure at Bollington, which was easily passed as a small map of suggested route was provided.
Now joining the peak forest canal,  I can see peak district clearly rising towards the sky in  the east.

Marple to Stalybridge (May 8th)

What a brilliant afternoon.
The peak forest canal is a real gem and provided some shelter from the cold wind.
Two long tunnels, a very high aqueduct and sometimes clinging to hillsides this canal is an engineering wonder,

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marple_Aqueduct

Just thinking about the amount of rock that was quarried suggests an enormous work force.
Route included small section of aston canal the surprise being that it goes under an Asda supermarket.
Now on the huddersfeild narrow canal, spotted the Waterside chippy/cafe at staley bridge and thought time for food, the proprietor and wife couldnt,  have been more friendly and helpful putting me in touch with the Flushing meadows guest house where i am now sitting in luxury with a view of the moors.

Staly bridge to Stoodly pike (May 9th)

Good breakfast, lovely host who made breakfast early despite it being Sunday.
Soon back on the canal path and made my way to the standedge tunnel where the canal disappears into the pennines for 3 miles and i climb up to meet the pennine way at Standedge.

At the start of my penine way i  met a walker who’s company i enjoyed  for a while, he knew the area very well and leads walks apparently,  one area people could get lost in was rather a  field of rocks.
Reaching M64 bridge which is rather  impressive in itself (i do remember seeing a documentary about how much scaffolding was needed to build this, enough to support the shuttering and concrete when poured, but also to support the amount of ice that accreted on the scaffold which was enormous),  i missed out on snack at the famous burger van just prior to this as it being sunday the van wasn’t present.

 

really cold wind and black sky at that point then improved weather.

After a while Stoodly pike can be seen in the distance so acts as a general direction marker,  up close it sure is big.

Stoodly pike to Hebden bridge

From stoodley pike to Hebden bridge was quite straight forward, the impressive part was the steepness of decent down to this lovely town. (the road really did just dive downhill).

After finding food luck was on my side in finding  a splendid B+B,  (initially asking at one near town centre gained a quote of 60 pounds), but then i asked at taxi office for advice and they put me onto a much better £32:50 location, more days like this would suit me just fine, the views from the moors are gorgeous.

Hebden bridge to Earby (May 10th)

Cloudy, cool, drizzle sleet at times improving during afternoon.
Headed north out of hebden bridge following river passing an oldmill

through hardcastle crags, all in woodland and babbling river really beautiful. One thing i notice by the stream was part of a tree trunk with hundreds of coins pressed/hammered into it’s surface.

connect with pennine way further up stream where for the second time i had the compass problem i had been warned about in that being in a valley with apparently magnetic rocks the compass just wanted to nose dive in any direction so was of no use for a while, so it was features (small woods) on the map that got me on track. 

From the reservoirs the route was  well signed,and  luckily over the top is trail of limestone slabs, it got really cold there as the eternal head wind was throwing sleety snow at me.
At top withens i got into the ruins for a sheltered sandwich and was immediately accosted by sheep that wanted to share my food, guess they do well hassling hikers.
Soon after found a pub for pot of tea and get warm (found here the mobile wouldn’t work (no signal) but luckily pub had a public phone to find accommodation), then took a mixture of trails and small roads edging west to Earby youth hostel.

Just before the hostel i found a brilliant chip shop that cooked to order and their home made fish cake (with chips) was just divine, the hostel was lovely and only two of us staying there which seemed amazing.
Seen grey wagtail, oyster catcher, pewit, for me the curlews are just a great sight and sound, also grouse.

Earby to Gargrave (May 11th)

Frost, blue sky, fluffy clouds, little breeze.
With a curlew warbling overhead at day break this promised to be a perfect day and so far is.
The recommended cafe in Earby still wasn’t open at ten past eight and i wasn’t loosing any more time waiting so at the bakers purchased a couple of large sausage rolls and headed out of town on an old rail track bed to reconnect with the pennine way over fields towards Gargrave.

The route includes a short piece of the Leeds and Liverpool canal which is lucky as this piece contains an unusual double bridge.

 

Passed a lady on horse back and commented on what a splendid area she lived in, her reply was yes but not as nice as Scotland, which i assured her i looked forward to.

The cafe in Gargrave is combined with old fashioned sweet shop, the shelving also festooned with old memorabilia that doesn’t show well in my phone picture.

Gargrave to Malham cove (May 11th)

Really enjoyed some splendid valley walking to Malham which is famous and beautiful in itself but must admit i was disappointed to find no food shops in malham, the cafe doesn’t open till 9:30 and i wished to be away early, luckily the ladies in the cafe make sandwiches that i can keep overnight for breakfast and i can eat at a pub this evening.  Youth hostel fully booked all week so im on a campsite that is decidedly basic (fine by me but not what some would expect) and has a passion for hand written notices pointing out the myriad of restrictions/rules that apply. (quite amusing).

Great day , saw swifts and i think weatears.

Malham to Pen-y-ghent (May 12th)

Clear sky clouds building, rain in the night followed by frost.
Huge amount of ice on tent, 5.30 eating cheese sandwich and mars bar for breakfast, shake ice of tent and pack. Soon on way up side of malham cove,  on the steep track.

Started of with gloves on , soon wooly hat as cold wind hurting my ears, then had to don waterproof to get warm , there just isnt much shelter and the weather is good for november. From the top of Malham cove to Malham tarn the signage isn’t brilliant and from there up fountains fell certainly a close eye is needed on the map as confirmation posts are distantly placed along the route.

The area around Malham tarn is worthy of mention for its amazing environment, with acid bog on top of limestone its quite remarkable, up here can be found insect eating plants, club mosses and who knows how much archaeology is preserved in the bogs. On reaching the top of fountains fell Pen-y-ghent looms large into view on the horizon though it is a good distance yet away.

The walk down from fountains fell was straight forward to follow and then a small road section connects with farm track that passes Churn milk hole, a sink hole that is very impressive in size and depth (see how near the rim you don’t dare step), then its the climb up Pen-y-ghent itself which get very steep at one point, the wind at the top was ferocious with snow on it at times, and here after seeing no hikers all morning quite a few were to be found.

Image is sheltered seating atop the mountain (one of the three peaks challenge summits).

Pen-y-ghent to Horton in ribblesdale (May 12th)

As i left pen-y-ghent the snow started but didnt last long, at horton in ribblesdale there is a cafe that serves tea in pint mugs, also had the breakfast as my first real meal of the day. The cafe doubles as  tourist information post and put me onto a bunk house cheep and cheerful (£12) roof for the night, must admit it’s nice to get out of that wind for a comfy night. Now took opportunity to ride on the ribblehead railway, one station being at the opposite end of this village, i went 4 stations up the line and a half hour wait provided a return train, unfortunately not a steamer as these are infrequent as specials and are no doubt fully booked months ahead, never the less i enjoyed the ride on this famous line.

Horton in ribblesdale station. 

A meal was had in the pub later along with two pots of tea, i was joined in the bunk house by a group of four who had just done the 3 peaks challenge, i had to complement the young woman (felt sorry for her) on getting round the course (24 miles) when not used to such activity, her ankles above the heels were red raw and plasters applied. All i could advise was that she did some gentle walking (short distance) in the morning to help the muscles relax as they would probably tighten in a painful way over night (at dawn it was obvious that had happened).

Horton in ribblesdale to Hawes (May 13th)

Frost, clear sky clouding over later and waterproofs needed to keep the cold wind out.
Breakfast at the pen y ghent cafe and onto the pennine way where i soon caught up with two retired americans who i had met in a pub the previous evening.
They were both called Bill and augmented the walk searching for geocaches, so yet another new experience for me as we took what was an easier day terrain wise than yesterday.

It was a pretty straight forward climb over moorland, with many pretty streams and bridges,

Another day of fantastic views including the distant ribblehead viaduct.

The last 3 miles not well signed but otherwise easy to find. The youth hostel had been booked by a school party same as malham and so wouldn’t accept hikers (not impressed) so found warm refuge in a B+B, the town includes the Wensleydale cheese factory but we pass these places generally not when they are open, found a chip shop which so far produced the least for most money (must be a tourist area), but they were tasty and set me up for an early night (no problem sleeping after hiking).

Hawes to Baldersdale (May 14th)

Light shower, cloudy, chilly wind.
Today was going to be a long one to make up for short days, made a little shorter by taking the buttertubs road for first section.
Hawes was very nice little town and i’m sure would be a good place to explore but many miles ahead so back on the trail, on leaving B+B soon pass old rail station where amazingly sits a steamer on a shot piece of track, there is hope of the line being relayed so it may yet gain freedom.

 

The buttertubs road has some testing climbs and gives great views of steep sided valleys, i was actually very pleased to have gone this way.

“The Buttertubs Pass is a high road in the Yorkshire dales. The road winds its way north from  near Hawes towards Thwaite and past 20 metre deep limestone potholes called the Buttertubs, It is said that the name of the potholes came from the times when farmers would rest there on their way to market. During hot weather they would lower the butter tubs they had produced into the potholes to keep it cool.”  Excert from website explaining the passes name.

 

My photo looking down a buttertub.

At keld i stopped at a bunk house and camp site for a cup of tea, talking to the owners couldnt of been more helpful calling a place they knew ahead to check vacancies and book me in (i had intended heading for Bowes but they knew its accommodation was fully booked.

Another climbing challenge got me to tan hill inn for lunch, here i found 3 lambs curled up against the entrance door (guess they are bottle fed orphans).
Next section was in contrast open moorland with white topped wooden posts as guide to route, further on i lost the trail and used the compass until i could see the A66 and get back on track through the tunnel under the main road. Soon after i passed 3 what i found out later to be Canadian girls doing the pennine way as they were staying at the same place as me.
The moors really are a wondrous environment with bog loving plants, curlews aplenty and grouse moaning noisily as im on their patch.
So onward to clove lodge farm where im in a mobile home (£10 + £7 for breakfast), the pennine way goes through their  farm yard so really it couldn’t be more convenient.

Baldersdale to Langdon beck (May 15th)

Cloudy, sunny spells, the eternal head wind.
Spoilt with a three course meal last night accompanied by another lejoger and the 3 Canadian girls doing the pennine way, after the full breakfast away over farm land, cross a couple of reservoirs and meander to middleton in teesdale which was busy (lots of cyclists and motorcycles) another pretty town with an information office that was very helpful. Followed by a cafe for small pasta meal and pot of tea, then i was able to use phone box to book accommodation for tonight (there are a lot of valleys here where mobile reception doesn’t exist.
Back on the pennine way following the river tees up stream which was very pleasant culminating in high force waterfall,

despite the lack of rain lately the waterfall was still impressive though i was rather taken with the stone sheep.

Then onto langdon beck youth hostel which was absolutely brilliant, the people running it were so friendly and helpful, a few hikers turned up (though i had a room to myself for quiet early night), we were treated to a large simple meal (plenty of vegetables) and seconds were available, this was just the tickety boo as everyone agreed that today we had all got fed up with the cold wind and this evening had put everyones humour back in order. We were even given details of where to walk in a field to get mobile reception for the quick blog update/position fix and a quick reassuring call to mother (boy it was cold in that field).

Langdon beck to Alston (May 16th)

Horray, got me hands on a computer though slow so may not be able to upload photo’s.
Cloud, showers, cold start, improving afternoon.
What another fantastic day, firstly yesterdays post was a rush in a field where phone gained a signal so forgot to twitter on about dippers, pied wagtails and a woman setting mole traps.
Today started with a big breakfast at the youth hostel after a big meal provided there last night, this hostel was excellent and a great bunch of people staying there (i learnt a new game from Australians which seemed to be called bananas!).

Set of this morning with one of the Australian woman who decided my short route sounded good for her damaged knee (physio had strapped it which looked quite the hindrance to walking).

That darned cold wind got up again with rain and falling cloud level soon had us in full wet gear, dropping of the road to take low level tracks and paths proved a good bit of planing avoiding much of the motorcycle and sport car procession using the winding road.

At around the highest point of all the luck i spotted a shooting hut and blow me the door wasn’t locked so we got out of the wind for a rest and drink,

leaving here it was soon down on a track by the river side and very pleasant walking indeed passed many neglected buildings (one old house now occupied by cattle), Whilst passing some trees the surprise of the day was when the lady spotted a squirrel and seemed a bit bemused by my excitement as this was a red squirrel and not something i had expected to see, we then met a man with cycle and trailer who was from Edinburgh heading for east Anglia.

We eventually reached Garragill where i had notice a pub on the map, well we found the pub, it was boarded up so something of a disappointment, we sat on the village green to drink water and she kindly shared her tuna sandwiches with me,

whilst doing this i noticed a local working on his car so went over to ask if there might be a tea shop hiding in the village, why no was the reply but i will make you tea he declared and so we had tea on the village green feeling like really lucky bunnies due to the basic kindness of people, this seemed to be another of those oh so pretty villages where people want to live but there isn’t a living to be made (such a shame).

By now the low cloud was lifting and the sun was making the occasional appearance, leaving Garrigill the path follows a river and it just got prettier and warmer, we saw many interesting plants and a tree creeper, passed some dozing bulls and countless cute lambs, two miles from Alston the sun improved enough for a break to remove and pack away the wet gear.
Just another splendid day, the ladies leg held up very well (she is taking a rest tomorrow so her friends catch up from Dufton) and i certainly enjoyed her company, the path passes right by the Alston youth hostel where there is no evening meal available so it just might be a bit of home cooking as a kitchen is available.

Alston to Haltwhistle (May17th)

Alston hostel was very good with spaces to spare.
Last night i did 2 plates of spaghetti with simple sauce to make a welcome change from the usual processed fayre we tend to survive on.
Porridge and full fry up for breakfast and then onto the south tyne trail a mostly disused rail line, (though the short used line appears to be extending).

 

 

 

Old signal box and part of railway used as tourist ride.

The sky started blue with fluffy clouds developing and temperature reaching warm.
At Slaggy ford old station there ws a red squirrel playing on the platform and further along 3 were chasing each other around a tree(couldn’t get close enough for photo), so this area must be home to a small remnant population of what was once a nation wide species.

 

 

 

At Lambley there is a magnificent viaduct to cross, apparently now a listed monument, and a real credit to its designer/builders. Due to private ownership of property (old station) on the bridge approach (from this direction) there is a path going down the valley side, under a bridge arch and back up the other side, some would say this is a nuisance (it does add some effort) but i feel the close up experience of the pillar/arch structure adds to the impressiveness of the structure.

 

The photo does little credit to the structure and views from the mid section looking down a river valley.

The trail leads into Haltwhistle , a nice enough town where i happened upon a butchers that did a sausage sandwich so good i had to go back for another. Just another splendid day.

 

Steaming along (May 20th)

Who would believe my luck, while in Carlile a steamer (Bittern) pulled up at platform 1 for a run to London (Euston), would like to have been on it shoveling coal.
Now back im Haltwhistle camp site ready for Hadrians wall tommorow, the weather sure is warmer.

The 39 club (May 21st)

talk included money laundering. The 39 club as everyone was around 39, this must be hiking at it’s best.

Andy seems to have their attention. (Probably one of his stories about a light bulb)

Haltwhistle to Bellingham (May 21st)

Could the days get better Oh yes.
Misty dawn , this soon cleared to sunny, very warm with fluffy clouds, one weak shower mid afternoon.
Left the camp site early after cold meat sandwich, they werent doing the advertised break fast due to lack of staff! (i’m afraid this campsite wasn’t  the best choice)
Waked along road to next campsite (winsheilds) and looking across the field could see a tent just like mine, went across and it was Andy with Alfie the dog and this site was doing breakfast.

Soon on the road passing Hadrians wall and tracks to a small loch, took break before joining pennine way where of all the luck met the 5 Austalian ladies plus ones man, so quite the gang hike.
Much frivolity, the money laundering (washing) was due to a note tied to Alfie (donation) and then he rolled in dung.
We walked and talked and laughed and some fell over , the scenery was fantastic, wild life included many lepidoptera the out standing one being a green hairstreak butterfly. Just another great day.

First time the matching tents were pitched together, we made a bad choice of pub for meal that night but it turned into a great laugh involving a pineapple.

Bellingham to Byrness (May 22nd)

90% blue sky, mist soon cleared, hot , welcome breeze.

A day when we were constantly up and down slope , some steep.
Initialy farm land then high moors followed by kielder forest and river valley to finnish.
Lots of butterfly/moths and an adder (unfortunately dead, road kill).

Much of route is dry but still wet bogs as some found today. One break on a high point another in a mossy knoll in shady forest (lovely).
(the cafe in byrness is shut, but lucky us have got in youth hostel and they do evening meal, this is good place to stay. Another lejoger has turned up (Tom from scotland).

Into Scotland (May 23rd)

Actually walked the length of England.

This was one of those stunning views the camera (or operator) do little for.

Byrness to Jedburgh (May 23rd)

Clear sky, 50% cloud cover developed, one splattering of rain, warm with cooling breeze. Every one aware of tough day so away by 7.30.
steep climb through forest then up over crags, what a view, highest point above 500mtr stop for water and cool down.
Australian ladies team look set for impressive finnish to their pennine way tomorrow.
Across peaks and moorland sometimes boggy, sometimes with Brian another pennine way walker.

In places board walks or limestone slabs have been laid to stop the wide erosion of the peat bogs and work very well.

Lunch with the gang at old roman fort, eventually had to say a sad good bye to pennine walkers at Dere street where Andy and i forked left and continued north west , after a few miles stopped overlooking marvelous valley for pepperoni sandwiches followed by tinned rice pudding (heaven).

Dere street for several miles and then turn of for overnight camp in Jedburgh, passed scarecrow competition, even the little dog looked a bit tired after 21.5 miles. What a brilliant day, even saw a badger.

Liliard stone (May 24th)

Awoke to dawn chorus, found it was 4.30 and laid back for another hour. sunshine and clouds, getting hot with welcome breeze at times.
Took us some time to find a breakfast in Jedburgh, then goodbye to Andy and follow track north, friendly farmer advised where track cut by road so moved onto A road for short distance and soon on St cuthberts way, gorgeous, wooded stream edge.
Later along river teviot in old parkland crossed a fantastic suspension footbridge. 

 

Sign said SCway right, i went left on route heading, lost in an arboretum the gardeners said its not unusual, ended up in garden centre (woodside) for pot of tea. Sign from car park straight back on SC way and what a treat, 

 

Memorial at Lilliards edge, the inscription reads.

“Fair Maid Lilliard
lies under this stane
little was her stature
but muckle was her fame
upon the English loons
she laid monie thumps
and when her legs were cuttit off
she fought upon her stumps.
AD 1544”.

http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/search_item/index.php?service=RCAHMS&id=57010

The shear beauty of these trails sometimes seems to good to be true. 

This is the remains of a roman road, umm, wonder if our motorways will age the same.

Jedburgh to Melrose (May 24th)

After enjoying rice pudding at the previous stop St Cuthberts way carrys on along the same route as Dere street for some time, eventually SC way turns right while Dere street goes straight on, i went straight on and it shadows the A68 for some time eventually the road side has to be taken to for a short time on a wide verge so no problem.
At St Boswells i found takeaway tea at a garage and sat in the park to enjoy, soon back on the road with the Eildon hills ahead , these had been visible from high places for today and yesterday but now i was about to pass them, on a cycle route, the road to Melrose from Newtown St Boswells was closed to traffic (except cycles) but i could see no reason why and it made for a quiet stroll into town, now at the Melrose youth hostel where my feet can enjoy an evening out of the boots and i can do some cooking and washing (not before time).
Another great day when parts of the trail were just a joy .

Three bretheren (May 25th)

Eildon hills in background, the three hikers (one Brit, two Belgian) turned up while i was enjoying a snack.

Melrose to Peebles (May 25th)

Overcast, sunny intervals : hot at times.
Good hostel, early break fast of sandwiches and pine apple then on the trail 7.30
Follow river tweed then small roads, met a local hiker who helped plant the forest where i was going.

At fairmile the tea shop was closed but what a beautiful spot for taking a rest stop next to the old bridge.

 

The Southern upland way is a long uphill climb from here to the three bretheren cairns.

The trail now turned from forest to open moorland until near minch moor.

At one point a piece of modern art has been carried out on the moorland (unless it was aliens).

At last high point i stopped for another snack while bumbble bees buzzed around, a buzzard was soaring over the wooded valley and a wood pecker was hammering out a tune, couldnt ask for much more.
At Cadrona found tea shop at old railway station where amazingly the lady told me of a campsite in peebles and the street name it is on, so that’s where i am now.

 Just another great day.

Peebles to Ratho (May 26th)

Dry, cold wind early improving.

Early breakfast (before 7 am) at a baguette shop on the high street and on the road out of town, there was a disused railway that i could use in places (another that would be great made up as a cycle/hiking route).
Had to put waterproof on mid morning to keep wind out, (this was the lejog of headwinds).  There was a beautiful ruined church on route

 

One bus shelter provided a welcome hide away from the wind for a pack of rest.

 

 

warmed up later when finding a tea shop at west linton,

West linton was my kind of town, just big enough to have shops and amenities but not huge and sprawling over the land scape.

On route to Carlops i had the rarer opportunity to talk to a pig, (most days involve mornin sheep and often cattle ) who are such good listeners, you can see this one was completely enthralled by the tales i had to tell.

Climbed over the pentland hills and Edinburgh came into view with mountains to the north as i dropped down towards Balerno (then things went a bit awry) the only accommodation i was offered in Balerno was a B+B at £90 (no that isn’t a typo). I kept walking and struggled a little to find the union canal as roads had been cut of by new ones altering the layout compared with my map, anyway once on the canal i kept walking until nearly dark and camped in some woodland that was nicely out of sight.

Atop the pentlands (May 26th)

Ratho to Falkirk (May 27th)

Cloudy improving later.
Last nights post was a rush due to spending so much time hunting accommodation and failing so i spent the night in some woodland (rather nice).
Awoken by the dawn chorus at 4:30 i took it easy for an hour and then made coffee and packed. “Again i had to don the water proofs to keep the wind out, a couple of hours later in Broxburn i found breakfast in a subway. (it was the first place open and their breakfast special egg and bacon in a roll with coffee (£2) twice set me up for the day).

 

 

Feel it is worth mentioning the red waste heaps on opposite side of canal, these are enormous and cover quite a large area, but as can be seen in the photo nature is reclaiming them, another 20 years left alone and the spoilt area could be back to a wildlife haven. (top marks to nature). Curiously while walking this section a man asked if i was available for work and seemed bemused that i would rather walk north.

A whole lot of walking along the flat canal path and miles ticked by , to my surprise i came across my first chicken of the woods fungi and a nice display of the dryads saddle fungi.

This canal is certainly picturesque in wooded cuttings, and a couple of aqueducts, at one stage i saw another hiker coming the other way who turned out to be the first jogler i have met (John o groats to lands end), he is doing a mind boggling 1600 mile route.
After this i travelled through the 600 metre leaky tunnel

that really has to be experienced to be believed, it is just possible to see light at the end of the tunnel but it is certainly dark inside. this lead me to the Falkirk wheel, at the information centre the ladies couldn’t have been more helpful putting onto the idea of staying at Stirling youth hostel (traveling there on a bus) which has worked out really well (they even supplied maps to bus station in Falkirk and to hostel in Stirling), they really were stars. so my feet have an evening out of the boots (after 25 miles that feels good).

Falkirk to Kilsyth (May 28th)

Overcast, improving, one heavy shower.

The ladies at information centre couldn’t believe i would go back to where i finished yesterday rather than walk from where i was last night (guess they don’t understand lejog mentality!), anyway i took them a packet of chocolate biscuits (to go with their tea) to show my appreciation for yesterdays help. (and take a few more snaps of the Falkirk wheel.

 

Easy day along (forth and clyde) canal through nice countryside and worked out i could from Kilsyth take a road south and catch the train from Cloy back to Sterling and have an afternoon around the old city and night in the youth hostel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Is this the grandest approach to a youth hostel?

Saw first young swans (signets) of the year and first blue tailed damselflies , Sterling is very nice , the castle seemed to be home to a wedding party containing plenty of kilts, some of the views around here are just stunning. Could see a marvelous monument in the distance (from Stirling castle), later learnt it is the Wallace monument another great piece of architecture/stone masonry.

 

Kilsyth to Drymen (May 29th)

Early out of the hostel.
Overcast, rain clearing.
Soon got train to cloy and walked 2 miles to Kilsyth back on track, found tea at Milton campsie then onto disused railway. Great traveling, occasional drizzle but for once no wind so a huge improvement.
Onto west highland way and lots of hikers, met one group with Alsatian dog that has saddle bags containing its food.

 

Then the rain started in earnest, hour later find Drymen campsite and get in barn to drip dry, made tea , sky gradually cleared, pitch tent, wander into town for meal and supplies for breakfast. Apparently it had been Drymen show and seems this was a reason for a huge number of people to go to the pubs, the village smelt of beer and finding a seat to eat in a restaurant wasn’t easy. Also it seemed to be the start of busy season for hiking as the campsite was packed with tents.

From high point could see islands in loch lomond.
Was it a good day, Oh yes

Drymen to Inverarnan (May 30th)

Cloud reducing, wind reducing, sun increasing.
What can i say, another patch work of pleasure.

Awake early and with so many tents in a small area the amount of snoring was rather amusing, make breakfast and on the trail by 6:30, an hour later was surprised on a road section when a car pulled up and out popped a lejoger i had met a couple of weeks ago (mr harris) who had been taken to lodging and was returning to last point in his journey.
The trail (west highland way) varies sometimes steep clambering over rocks, sometimes smooth meadow, sometimes through woodland, always stunning views.

Lucky me teamed up with two scots men who were enormously good company, i ended up going further than intended, 25 miles so a long walk that ended at a campsite which is still serving food and pots of tea (hooray) Just another great day.

Islands in loch lomond, it was just so beautiful.

Inverarnan to Bridge of orchy (May 31st)

cold night sun soon got hot in blue sky, few clouds.
Campsite did breakfast so very nice start.
Most days involve saying morning sheep fairly early, today it was first thing as they were grazing around tents, this was closely followed by ritual flicking slugs of tent.
Yesterday caterpillar of the drinker moth and speckled yellow moth adult, today small heath butterfly and a dragon fly.

Today was another 20 miles of this wonderful trail with
Ian and Garry for company, several times crossing under or over railway,

This tunnel under railway was obviously designed for driving sheep through as it required a deep stoop to get through with pack on,

the mountains appear to be getting higher and steeper. wild camped near a river as all accommodation is booked, so i’m not alone camped by the river and what a joy when i noticed fish leaping out of the water assumedly after the midges for dinner, had a pot of tea in the hotel nearby and booked a breakfast.

I was concerned as the river side camping provided no shelter from the gusty wind with heavy showers but the tent stood firm (well it wobbled a lot but stayed up) and i awoke dry.

Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven (June 1st)

Blustery rain night and morning then cleared for pleasant afternoon.
Quick pack of wet tent (kept me dry) and into hotel for breakfast, it sounded a bit expensive but they did put on a good arrangement of cereals and fruit (dry and fresh), so a bowl of corn flakes followed by the fried breakfast and toast, (then stuffed my shirt with apples and a banana for the trail) set me up for the day.

 Left the village in full rain gear, soon onto open moor on old rock road.

 

Great views streams and testing climbs ,

 

then descending across the enourmous rannock moor to kings house pub for pot of tea.
Now great views of mountains with tops in clouds. My photo is rubbish of the Buachaille Etive Mòr mountain which just had me starring in awe at it, this mountain i would really like to climb soon (never climbed mountains but this one was just so attractive).

If the mountains weren’t enough this glacier valley was just stunning and the point we run out of words for just how good a day can be.

climb devils stair case over highest part of west highland way followed by the long decent into Kinlochleven partly beside the enormous pipes that feed water power to the aluminum plant.

A tough 22 mile day, now in campsite harassed by the famous midges, after pitching went and found the local chip shop which provided the least food for price in such an establishment i have found so far. But a day that on it’s own would have made the whole trip worthwhile.

Kinlochleven to Fort William (June 2nd)

Nice warm night in the tent, (dry but still windy which eased later).

Early away on the trail and quite the climb out of Kinlochleven which soon provided a great view looking back over the town.

 

Amongst more misty mountains, some open moor and forest, now for a sweet decent for a pot of tea.

A wander around fort william proved all services available but it was a bit over powering having so many people and so much traffic around .

A real suprise was seeing a steam engine in the railway station preparing for a run to Mallaig.

The pennine way is rightly considered a fantastic challenge and spectacle, i have to say the west highland way tho shorter is really something to enjoy and i feel very lucky to have done this, the company has also been excellent, i now know a little about the mountains and understand why people go munro bagging.

Presently in youth hostel so the feet get an evening out of the boots and oh joy a bed.

managed to empty my camera onto the flickr feed  and look forward to updating posts at first opportunity with photo’s and commentary oh i could get boring going on about the raw beauty but it really has been fantastic.

Day off (June 3rd)

Atop Ben nevis, Britain/Scotland’s highest mountain.

The trail is steep and long but manageable by most if they allow enough time.

Crossed snow fields near the top.

The amount of snow in June seems remarkable to me (apparently still skiing in some areas).

What a lucky day for me with sun and a cool breeze it was just about perfect.

Loch lochy (June 4th)

Sun and clouds, hot, welcome breeze at times.
Early start was hectic with people getting up to head for the mountain.
As i left all was quiet on the trail, despite having breakfast i had another two hours later at a cafe i spotted due to lack of food sources on route (good move).
After Neptune’s locks the great glen way was quiet,

at moy swing bridge two yachts were passing, one a catamaran had poodle with life jacket on deck.
On reaching Gairlochy the tea shop on my new map proved non existent, near clunes having mars bar and orange, hope to find food before nightfall .

Fort William to Invergarry (June 4th)

That was a long hot hike.
After Clunes the trail moves up the hillside into forest again giving a nice mixture of environments, true it adds some climbs and at times obscures the view, but when breaks in the forest occur the views across and along the loch are stupendous, i was particularly curious about the position of trees on the opposite slope where they seem to like growing along the edge of water worn gullies.

At times looking back  i could still see the snow speckled peaks of the nevis family.
I am amazed at the solitude on this named trail (hikers and cyclist combined less than ten).
At Laggan locks tea found at the eagle floating pub

which is also a bunk house but was fully booked as was laggan hostel, phone call gained last bed at invergarry hostel and the shop at (well of the seven heads) was open so hunger abated. This was a splendid day 🙂

Oich bridge (June 5th)

What a start to the day, dry sunny soon sat by loch under overhanging beech trees enjoying the serenity.
next a squirrel ran across the road and we played hide and seek for a while.

At Oich bridge a lady was photographing the bridge and asked if i had seen a lejoger on my way as she was waiting to join him for the day.

 

What a trail of chances life is, that chance meeting led to my meeting Chris harrington when other wise our paths may never have crossed, this led to a tea stop with cake.

Invergarry to Invermoriston (June 5th)

It sure was hot today and then came some heavy showers.
After the Caledonian canal put us at fort Augustus lunch break seemed a fine idea (i resisted the chip shop).

the trail then turns uphill to get away from the road and its back into pine forest. Again it was some awesome views of the sheer size of Loch ness. The walk into invermorison on the new road gives a fine view of the old road bridge.

 

I walked back from invermorison to Port clair having been told by a lady about a campsite (norwood), this is well worth knowing about hikers as they do camping, B and B, snacks all at good prices and just of the path. I have to say this was one of those places where i felt like part of the family for my short stay.

Norwood
Port Clair
Invermoriston
Inverness-shire
IV63 7YE

Phone:	01320 351251
Email:	hatton722@btinternet.com

Invermorison to Drumnadrochit (June 6th)

Rain had cleared over night leaving a cooler atmosphere with low cloud level.
Walked back through invermorison on the road, when i climbed up on the trail the cloud (fog) was very close , quite a pleasant cool sultry feel amongst the pine forest.

 

As usual the trail climbed high up the mountain side with the cloud lifting to reveal great views, along these forest track sides i noticed a number of wood ant mounds.

 

 

Around midway todays section of the great glen way turns higher into more open broadleaf wood land, the atmosphere is unpolluted here as evidenced by the amount of lichens growing on the trees.

The trail turns onto a minor road across open moorland then back to forest tracks for the final decent,

one surprise at river edge was a hooded crow.

A few days ago i started to wonder how many thousand mountain streams i have passed with their pleasant gurgling down hill, well i guess today added several more in number and beauty. this afternoons two hours light rain will help them keep flowing (it was only enough to dampen my clothing), now at the youth hostel for a dry night.

Tea with friends (June 7th)

Tea with friends at the unusual eco campsite.

 

Where you can spend the night in a yurt, which would have been novel and welcome on a stormy night.

Drumnadrochit to Inverness (June 7th)

Cloudy clearing to sun with breeze.
Last day of the great glen way and what a day.
initially on roadside then path up hill through mostly pine forest to highest point of route and enormous panoramic views, long section of open moorland, then descend through mixed woodland towards city, a short stretch of the Caledonian canal, some ornate bridges make island hoping along the river ness possible,

then the finnish at the castle,

 a really great journey.
On the trail i saw 2 hikers and 3 cyclists . Wildlife included 2 hooded crows,

 

1 fox moth caterpillar, sure i could hear but not see gold crests, 2 grouse with chicks, several male emperor moths and a large toad.

Another great day.

Inverness to Dingwall (June 8th)

Cloudy, light rain afternoon.
Breakfast in town then meet up with Andy and his dog Alfie.
Inverness certainly has a lot of bridges the biggest taking us across the Moray firth.

 

To avoid A roads we followed the firth for some miles and a very quiet serene route it was, after tea break no2 we headed across country to this excellent campsite, advised by the owners of a two for one offer at restaurant on the rail station

we soon had two meals each, which were enjoyed sheltered under a horse chestnut tree alongside the pair of tents, not visible in the photo is the palling fencing behind us that reduced the wind speed enormously.

Dingwall to Alnes (June 9th)

Total cloud cover, plenty of overnight rain, light shower morning, improving to dry warm breezy afternoon ideal for plodding.
The town proved very nice, plenty of shops for breakfast and away on route, mostly minor roads through Farmland surprisingly quiet as we move around the Cromarty firth, many oil rigs standing high above the water.

At Evanton peoples friendliness and generosity hit a new high with the cafe bill for tea and pancakes being zero at the cornerstone cafe, this trip realy highlights the number of nice people there are, Wild camped in forest between alness and tain.

The sea (June 10th)

After the turn at rinsey in cornwall the sea (North) comes back into view, Andy has decided to stand in it.

Alnes to Dornoch (June 10th)

Overcast cool clearing to warm sunny afternoon.
Waking in the forest was pleasant place for spaghetti breakfast.
We were on the minor road 7:30 and making easy progress through mixed woodland and farmland, at the first rest stop Andy had to go all fashionable due to the midges (which seemed to favour him)

The road into tain took us past a rather neat looking hotel, Tain turned out to be a quaint town ideal for a second breakfast and supplies.

 
 

 

Then walking around dornoch firth to the dornoch bridge where a pub supplied a pot of tea, the bridge proved the first place with John o groats on a signpost (85 miles by road), our route is longer but worth it for the quiet road into Dornoh which took us past one of those great structures people make out of oddments.

Entering Dornoch by chance i spotted (outside a pub) Chris harrington who i met on the great glen way ( so he is making similar progress), this was of course an excuse for another pot of tea. Now we pitched in sand dunes directly behind the sea, another great day.

Dornoch to Brora (June 11th)

overcast to sunshine to overcast to sunshine.
Waking in the sandunes was sweet with the sound of waves rolling onto the shore and a mass of bird calls all around.
Breakfast of cold pancakes, fruit and coffee then off along the beach soon passing through a golf course.

 

Today included getting around Loch fleet the first few miles following an old rail route much of the time and was quiet and scenic, wildlife included distant seals, shellduck, snowy inkcap and bolbitious fungi.
Next was a section of the A9 (busy road) to Golspie which was to busy but soon forgotten on finding a cafe for fry up and pot o tea.
Now a coast track to Brora turned into a wonderful stroll soon to pass a cinderella of a castle,

 

 

A small double waterfall (realy cute),

First silver Y moth of the year, then some close encounters with dozens of seals (young and old).

 

Then  in a pub drinking tea whilst waiting for evening meal (pizzas), supplies for the morning already purchased. This was a fantastic day.

Brora to Helmesdale (June 12th)

Sheet cloud cover with the sun burning great holes through from 4:30 am.

 

What a dawn sky.

A stormy night with not a lot of rain luckily as with the tent pegs in sand the wind kept pulling out those holding the awning threatening my boots with getting wet (not good). So the sleep included lots of wakes due to loud flapping and replace the pegs in ground, some when during early hours the wind abated (hooray).
Pack early as it was a truly beautiful dawn the remaining showers creating a rainbow in the strengthening sunshine, streaks of sand in the shelter behind pebbles on the sea shore showing the strength and direction of the nights wind.

 

 

It wasnt long before the first great moment of the day, coming across a colony of nesting Arctic turns, theses dissuade critters (including humans) from wandering across their patch by plenty of shreeking while diving to peck at and shit on said critter, a wonderful first for me!

 

One turn hit my hat but luckily missed seymore the tortoise.

Wandering along parts of the A9 at this hour were not much of a problem, the traffic level being surprisingly low, the trail of lonesome gloves continues (single gloves assumedly dropped by mistake), what has been evident since fort william is the wonderful scenic routes taken by railways in the highlands, so what a pleasure it would be to ride those routes some time.
There has been a rumour of 600 cycles leaving john o groats today but so far i have seen no sign of them, one wall where i stopped for a snack had small lizards crawling in and out of its joints, at another rest stop a car stopped to offer me a lift, i felt ungrateful declining but explained i must walk all the way.
Have a space promised in the youth hostel tonight so can cook a heap of pasta, grease the feet, have a shave and charge this phone, all to get me to the end in hopefully good shape.

Helmesdale to Dunbeath (June 13th)

Overcast, drizzle/showers getting heavier then clearing afternoon.

Old bridge in Helmesdale with memorial on hill in background.

Great hostel, soon away on route, mid morning was the famed climb out of Berriedale which though steep i thought was much shorter than the climb out of Helmesdale so actually less taxing (they were both fine), notice how this area has place names ending with ‘dale’.

 

Quiet A9.

Wildlife included lapwings, cuckoo,s curlews and still plenty of oyster catchers.
Camped just north of Dunbeath, met Chris (lejoger) in the pub where i was having the pot of tea, originaly i had planned to go through Watten but now thinking i like Andys idea of going to north east corner and aproaching John O Groats from the east via Duncansby head is good.

Dunbeath to Wick (June 14th)

Overcast still a cool headwind.
Early start (6 am) to avoid the famed traffic which though a few were in a monday rush was actualy no problem as very light in number on the A9 and wen i turned onto the A99 reduced even more.
The day had started with curlews warbling over the camp site which as something i wouldn,t hear at home i dont tire of, also think i saw a pair of linnets and possibly some type of orchid (check when home) along with the regular wildlife.
For a couple of days oil rigs have been visible in the north sea , in the early gloom today the flare stack was clear to see on one.

A couple of miles out of Dunbeath is a house whose end to the road contains a large ivy clipped to the shape of a heart.

 

Though having brewed at dawn the advice of a postman of where to find pastie and coffe in Lybster was most welcome and accurate, the suprise as i turned into the little town was meeting Andy and Alfie comming out, we agreed that our paths may cross later which they did at Thrumster. (where he was brewing up outside a pub that wasn’t open).

Todays walking involved Contiuous gentle rolling hills through mixed farmland with a scattering of abandoned houses (crofts), which seems such a waste, In to Wick which is also suprisingly quiet, (i mean really quiet, no chip shop open so settled for a chinnese takeaway). Pitched in the towns campsite which affords some shelter from what has become an eternal north easterly breeze.

With another 21 miles behind me a good day.

The last signpost (June 15th)

Houston the tortoise has landed.

Wick to John O’Groats (june 15th)

Overcast with large blue holes, some sun and light wind.
Lazy start at campsite brewing coffee then wander into town for the breakfast, walk out of town.

Following Andy and Alfie out of town (Wick). for the last leg.

Past the airport and turn right to the coast, what a brilliant move, the beach includes approximately four miles of sand, searching along the rocky parts Andy found a superb sea urchin and i had a close encounter with a cormorant (youngster appeared stuck amongst rocks so carrying to the sea did the trick as it happily swam of).

 

 

The beach really was great, i hadn’t expected this on the last day, there are some concrete defences left from the war, left the coast at Keiss and found the local for a pot of tea, back on the road the undulating farmland continued in it’s picturesqe manner, the next surprise for me was that when land to the north showed a watery edge (the sea) with shipping passing by, just how close the islands (Orkney’s) were, some how i had imagined they would be specks on the horizon.

 

 

Water on the horizon. 

Eventually John O Groat’s came into view and the final downhill to the finnish post completed for a photo and wonder “What next” Whilst drinking tea in a nearby hotel,
Chris the lejoger with impaired vision came in (having finished an hour earlier) and i sure was glad to shake his hand, feeling his achievement put my lejog in perspective.
Booked into a hostel for a couple of nights to explore the northern shore (just might see some puffins).